I went with my friend Ric, who is an experienced mountaineer, who showed me (and brought) the ropes of glacier travel. I'd been hesitant of going onto glaciers before, because I didn't know if I could do the self-arrest maneuver, build snow anchors, or do a crevasse rescue, but I have a lot more confidence in myself now that I've practiced some of these things, and I also was worried about the expensive gear it takes to go up, but for this trip I spent only 35 dollars. Ric was very gracious about loaning me some things and I got a pair of crampons last summer as a gift, so the expenses were limited.
We went up a route that is called the “Coleman-Deming Route” because it goes up on the side of the Coleman Glacier, then along “Pumice Ridge” which separates the Coleman from the Deming Glacier, and then out onto the top of the Deming Glacier in a spot called the “Roman Wall” which is the steepest section of the route and leads to the Summit Plateau. The actual summit is a little pile of pumice and tortured rock on the east side of the top, out of reach of the photograph taken from the San Juan Islands, but is not terribly interesting.
There are a bunch of waterfalls and river crossings that change shape during the day there, depending on how much snow is melting. Some of the waterfalls reminded me of Hawaii, though much colder. I was actually quite amazed at how the rocks were so similar to volcanic rock in Mexico and Hawaii that I had been near. I guess it all comes from the same earth.
Unfortunately the mice population up there is active at night and there was at least one mouse that wanted us to stay awake, running up and down on top of our sleeping bags and scampering in front of my face. We moved camp in the dark over to the snow and then settled down again for the night. I couldn't sleep very well, and found a few cat naps before it was time to wake up at 3:00 am. We got up and looked at the stars overhead and then cooked a leisurely breakfast, warmed up a bit and packed up camp.
We got to the car at about 7:00, and found that a mouse had climbed its way into Ric's truck and eaten some of the food that he'd left there. He had also left some water in a bottle that he'd borrowed the cap from for the climb. He took a big swig from the bottle and dumped some on his head to cool off after the climb and upon a second look at the water bottle found a dead mouse looking back at him from within the bottle!
I'd like to do this climb again, but probably take a snowboard and slide down the hill after the climb, and also try to do it all in one day.
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